One Day in Florence. My Foodie Guide
A personal guide to the city of artisans, markets, trattorias, cafés and bookstores
I first came to know Florence around the age of 25, when I left the comfort of my family home in Val d’Elsa—and Siena, where I’d studied—to venture out into the big city. Perhaps because I was a country girl at heart, Florence felt enormous to me: chaotic, overwhelming, instantly charming.
More a large town than a true city, Florence is made up of distinct neighborhoods, each with its artisan workshops, local markets, tucked-away squares, and winding alleyways—alongside the bustling, tourist-heavy areas. Thanks to the friends I met there—and, a few years later, to love—I discovered a version of Florence I hadn’t known before. And I fell for it.
I challenge anyone to resist the allure of Piazzale Michelangelo, or the peaceful beauty of San Miniato al Monte, with Florence unfurling below and the Arno catching the light in every season, at every hour of the day. To me, Florence was many things: late-night strolls with a gelato in hand and a heart full of love for my Florentine boyfriend; queueing for a lampredotto sandwich with friends, side by side with students, locals, and tourists; or ending the day with golden light dancing on the river and the Duomo’s silhouette in the distance, a camera slung over my shoulder.
I soon realized that the best way to discover Florence was on foot. The centre is mostly pedestrianised, and the city itself seems designed for wandering. You’ll stumble upon secret gardens behind old gates, craftspeople quietly at work in hidden courtyards, and the sudden joy of stepping into a sun-drenched piazza. Get lost. Then look up, spot the Duomo, and you’ll find your way again.
Personally, I love Florence in the early morning, just before the city wakes up—when cafés begin baking and the scent of fresh pastry escapes into the street. It’s quiet, timeless. And I adore the golden hour, when the stone façades catch the light and the Arno mirrors the sky. It truly feels like stepping inside a painting.
But what truly won me over were Florence’s markets.
At first, I was drawn in by the colours and scents—ripe strawberries in late spring, porcini from autumn woods. Then I found myself chatting with the vendors, who were always happy to share their tales and their recipes, their lively eyes behind heaps of fruits and vegetables.
I’ve always been a little hesitant to share a guide to Florence. Partly, it’s that familiar impostor syndrome—who am I, a country girl, to offer tips on a bustling city like Florence? And partly, it’s because my connection to the city has always been shaped by love and friendship, which makes it feel deeply personal. Florence isn’t just the famed Renaissance city of the Medici, the Duomo, Brunelleschi, and Michelangelo. To me, it’s the place where I made lifelong friends as an adult, where I had my first date with Tommaso twelve years ago, where I lived part-time for a year in his tiny apartment near Le Cure, and where, gathered around a table laden with pastries and coffee, I shared with my girlfriends the news that I was pregnant.
Still, since so many of our cooking class guests ask for recommendations in Florence, I thought it was time to share my two cents. Most of them are tucked behind the paywall, as this is a heartfelt collection of places and memories I hold dear.
So, years after we first shared our first Florence guide, we felt it was time for a refresh.
Much of the advice I gave in this post about traveling to Tuscany–one of the most talked-about pieces in our newsletter archive–still holds true. Florence remains particularly vulnerable to overtourism, and caring for its fragile beauty should come as second nature.
If you can, travel during the low season. And whenever possible, steer clear of the usual tourist traps, the endless queues, and those walls of flowers and neon lights staged for Instagram. Instead, carve your own path and try to experience the city at your own pace. Sometimes this will mean planning ahead; other times, it will mean getting blissfully lost, following the scent of something delicious wafting through a narrow street, or trailing behind a group of locals as they slip into a tiny, no-frills trattoria.
Keep your eyes open. Wander a little further, too—beyond the postcard-perfect centre—to the neighbourhoods on the city’s edge, where most Florentines now live, go out to dinner, and shop.
Here’s how we like to experience the city. A little guide from someone who doesn’t live in Florence, but keeps coming back, especially in the quieter, off-season months.
It also includes our favourite spots outside the city centre, out of the touristic routes. You won’t find the most famous trattorias or historical cafés here, nor the affogato gelato everyone seems to be raving about, or that panino that's rapidly taking over the world. Not because you shouldn’t enjoy them—by all means, do, if you want!—but because you’ll find plenty written about them elsewhere.
This is a collection of the places we truly love, of our favourite spots beyond the historic centre, well off the usual tourist trail, the ones our Florentine friends return to again and again, and a few that are just a little more under the radar.
Our Favourite Gelaterias
Evenings with friends often end with a gelato and a stroll through quieter streets. And now, with Livia, we often HAVE TO stop by one of these gelaterias. My top picks?
Gelateria La Sorbettiera
Piazza T. Tasso, 11/r, 50124 - Firenze (FI)
Via Mazzetta, 9a, 50125 - Firenze (FI)
Via de Banchi, 49/r, 50124 - Firenze (FI)
La Sorbettiera is where gelato follows the seasons. Opened in 2007 by Antonio Ciabattoni and his wife Elisa, it quickly became a neighbourhood favourite. Since 2009, Antonio has been churning gelato on site, visible from the street—a small workshop open to curious eyes. The gelato here is vibrant and thoughtful: classic flavours like pistachio and hazelnut shine, while seasonal creations—like ginger custard with chestnut honey, or basil and lime—add surprise. My favourite? Catrame, a dense, 75% dark chocolate sorbet. Tommaso always gets lemon and sage, herbal and bright. And when strawberries arrive, Livia is first in line—unless catrame tempts her too. You can find La Sorbettiera even in Via Mazzetta, 9a (Santo Spirito neighborhood) and in Via de Banchi, 49/r (near Santa Maria Novella train station).Artisanal, seasonal, and made with care—this is gelato worth queueing for.
Gelateria Edoardo
Piazza del Duomo 45/R, Firenze
Right in front of the Duomo, this tiny gelateria offers organic, artisanal gelato made with seasonal ingredients and a short, thoughtful list of flavours. Their cones are made fresh in-house, and the atmosphere feels warm and sincere. A perfect stop to enjoy something sweet while admiring Brunelleschi’s masterpiece.
Gelateria Carabé
Via Ricasoli 60/R, Firenze
A Sicilian gem near the Accademia, Carabé is my favourite for a proper granita—especially almond or mulberry—and a pistachio gelato that tastes like the real thing. No frills, just quality. It’s the kind of place where you can almost hear the sea, even in the middle of Florence.
Gelateria dei Neri
Via dei Neri 9/11R, Firenze
Beloved by locals and visitors alike, this gelateria offers bold, rich flavours and generous portions. The chocolate is deep and intense, perfect for an evening stroll, while their fruit sorbets are fresh and bright. Expect a queue, but it moves quickly—and it’s absolutely worth the wait.
Sbrino
Via dei Serragli 32r, FirenzeVia Senese 1r, Firenze
Here, you’ll find the very best of the local supply chain, all packed into a scoop of gelato. They focus on the quality of the milk, the ripest seasonal fruit, and top-notch ingredients to create truly unforgettable flavours. It’s your spot if you’re searching for gluten free and vegan options.
Il girasole
Via Aretina 138/C rosso, Firenze
After discovering I'm lactose intolerant, I began a quest to find a dairy-free way to enjoy gelato, not an easy task when milk and cream are usually front and centre. I stumbled upon this humble gelateria, tucked away in the suburbs of Florence, where I tried a vegan hazelnut and pistachio gelato. It was mind-blowing! The flavours were so rich and pure, it completely redefined what I thought vegan gelato could be.
Gelateria Barroccino San Donato
Via Carlo Ragghianti Ludovico 16, Firenze
This artisanal gelato shop offers high-quality ingredients ice cream. The welcoming atmosphere recalls traditional Italian gelato shops, with pastel colours and vintage details. You’ll find both classic and creative flavours, including vegan and gluten-free options. A perfect spot for a sweet break, any time of the year.
5 Favourite Places to Eat in Florence
These are the five places I return to again and again. Traditional, satisfying, and full of character.
Trattoria Sabatino
Via Pisana, 2R, Firenze
A no-frills, old-school trattoria where locals have lunch side by side with curious travelers. The menu is short, prices are low, and the portions are generous. Expect simple, comforting dishes like ribollita, roast pork, or stewed beans. Go for the food, stay for the genuine Florentine atmosphere.
Trattoria Cibrèo
Via dei Macci 122r, Firenze
Tel. 055 2341100
The casual sibling of the famous Cibrèo restaurant, this trattoria offers hearty Tuscan dishes just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market. Seasonal vegetables, rich stews, and rustic soups fill the menu. It's a great place to get a taste of Florence’s culinary soul—accessible, unfussy, and full of flavour.
Vini e Vecchi Sapori
Via dei Magazzini 3/r, Firenze
Tel. 055 293045
Tucked behind Piazza della Signoria, this tiny osteria feels like a secret. There’s no printed menu—just a handwritten list of daily dishes—and everything is deeply rooted in Tuscan tradition. It’s warm, intimate, and often fully booked. Don’t skip dessert: their tiramisù is reason enough to come back.
Semel
Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti, 44/r, Firenze
A tiny sandwich shop with a gourmet heart, right across from Sant’Ambrogio market. The daily-changing panini include bold, unexpected fillings: wild boar, anchovy and orange, ricotta and pheasant dumplings. It’s standing room only, but that’s part of the charm. Perfect for a quick, unforgettable bite between market strolls.
Le Volpi e l’Uva
Piazza dei Rossi 1R, Firenze
Tel. 055 239 8132
This intimate wine bar, tucked away behind the Ponte Vecchio, is a haven for wine lovers. The selection focuses on small producers and native grapes, with knowledgeable staff happy to guide you. Pair your glass with crostoni topped with cheese, cured meats, or vegetables. A perfect early-evening stop.
5 Things You Should Absolutely Do
Whether it’s your first time or your tenth, these are five things that always make me fall in love with Florence again.
Picnic in Piazza d’Azeglio. Just a few steps from the vibrant Sant’Ambrogio market, Piazza d’Azeglio is a peaceful, tree-lined square loved by locals. Pick up a warm panino and some seasonal fruit at the market, then find a shaded bench under the old trees. It’s a quiet spot to pause, people-watch, and feel a little more like you belong in the city.
Climb up to San Miniato al Monte. Walk a little further uphill beyond Piazzale Michelangelo and you’ll reach San Miniato al Monte, one of Florence’s most enchanting corners. Fewer tourists make it here, and the reward is silence, cool air, and a breathtaking view. The Romanesque church is beautiful, but it’s the breeze and the panorama that truly fill your heart.
Get a cappuccino at Caffetteria delle Oblate. Hidden inside a library once part of a medieval convent, this rooftop café is a local secret. Order a cappuccino and take a seat on the terrace, where the Duomo’s dome rises almost within reach. It’s ideal for reading, writing, or simply soaking in the view. During events, the space comes alive with music and culture.
Choose a museum. Visit La Specola, the Museum of Natural History, famous for its Anatomical Waxes, or Palazzo Pitti, with the Grand-Ducal Kitchen.
Look for books at Todo Modo. Part independent bookshop, part café, part cultural meeting point—Todo Modo is a place to linger. Browse its curated selection of books, sit down with a coffee or a glass of wine, and stay for a reading or a concert if one is scheduled. It’s the kind of place where Florence feels quietly creative and alive.
Do you have a favorite memory from Florence—or a hidden gem you discovered off the beaten path? I’d love to hear about it in the comments!
[The following part of the newsletter is for paid subscribers, who receive curated guides like this one, exclusive recipes, and access to our monthly cook-alongs. If you enjoy my writing and want the full story—plus the recipes and insider tips—consider supporting our work with a subscription. You’ll become part of a warm, food-loving community. Thank you!]
One Day in Florence – Insider's Edition
A curated selection of hidden gems, slow discoveries, and personal favourites for those who want to see Florence like a local. Inside this guide you will find:
More than 40 suggestions for eating, including breakfast cafes, pizzerias, street food, ice-cream shops, and restaurants.
The best markets in Florence
Our favourite shops and bookstores
Many suggestions for activities for the curious wonderer
1 downloadable and printable PDF with the complete guide, so you can carry it with you at all times