Bitter leaves

Growing up, we become more and more interested in bitter flavors. Today I'm sharing two recipes with radicchio: a grilled radicchio tardivo and a creamy risotto with radicchio and pancetta.

Bitter flavors are the last acquired in the development of the human palate, as in nature, bitterness is usually associated with poisonous foods. Babies instinctively love anything sweet and fat, as this means a way to survive, stocking up essential calories.

Growing up, we realize that not all bitter foods kill us. We find they can be interesting, palatable, and even exciting. So, we move from milk chocolate bars to an appreciation for dark, bitter chocolate with a sprinkling of sea salt. We crave a well-brewed coffee in the morning or a hoppy craft beer to end the day.

Our palates become more refined, and we gladly nibble on walnuts and olives, no longer push away broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, dandelion greens, radicchio, artichokes, and grapefruit.

Italians tolerate bitterness better than many.

Think about our love for amaro, a bitter liqueur that often closes a meal—Amaro Lucano or Amaro Averna, for example—or acts as a key ingredient in an aperitivo drink, such as Campari. We took this love affair with the bitter so far as to concoct Cynar, a liqueur made from 13 herbs and plants, including artichoke, the epitome of bitterness.

Now that your CSA box is brimming with bitter leaves, it’s the perfect moment to delve into bitterness, the Italian way—putting a bottle of your best extra virgin olive oil to good use.