Are you up for a challenge? Let's make the Sienese panforte from scratch

Panforte is the Sienese Christmas fruit and nut cake. I'm sharing my perfect recipe to make an outstanding panforte from scratch.

Are you up for a challenge? What if you make panforte, the Sienese Christmas fruit and nut cake from scratch?

First, an excerpt from Nigel Slater’s The Christmas Chronicles about panforte.

To eat it straight from its white paper wrapper in daylight is to indulge only in its curiously chewable compounded figs and nuts. You need a certain sense of occasion to understand its charm, which is probably why it only really comes out at Christmas.

Panforte has been made in Siena for centuries. Think of it as compressed fruit cake. And made to a secret recipe.

There is also something ancient about this shallow, fudge-coloured sweetmeats. As if you are chewing medieval manuscript.

So, let’s make it now.

You could start candying your own orange and citron peels following my recipe on the blog. You can find it here. it might take somewhere in between 7 and 10 days. Once your peels are ready, you can go on with the panforte.

The candying process is easy, but it takes time and patience. If you are willing to try, just ask me anything that is not clear to you. Leave your question in the comments.

When you make your own candied citrus peel, there’s no coming back, just like when you make your panforte from scratch.

If you do not feel like making your own candied peels, search for the best quality candied orange and citron peels you can find, as they will greatly influence the taste of your panforte.

A bit of history

The origins of panforte begin in the medieval monasteries of the area, where this “strong bread” would be prepared for special occasions. Later panforte passed to the hands of local apothecaries, those with access to rare and precious ingredients such as sugar, almonds, candied fruit and spices. Spice is what makes panforte special. Its intense, honeyed aroma is, for me, the true smell of Christmas, as are the almonds and orange zest of ricciarelli cookies.

This dense, spiced, nut-filled speciality bread is now the symbol of the Sienese Christmas. You can purchase artisanal panforte from local pastry shops. My favourites are those you can buy at Buti, Pasticceria delle Campane, and Manganelli.

But let’s talk a bit more about Manganelli. Established in 1879, this is the shop to buy Sienese cakes and cookies, wines, liqueurs, candied fruit, bulk nuts, pasta, and regional specialities. You can also pick up a take-home kit to make the classic ricciarelli cookies, containing pre-measured ingredients and instructions. If you ask about how to make panforte, they will even provide a sheet of the special paper used to wrap the cake, for a very professional effect.

But the real star of Manganelli is the spices. Their secret spice mixes used to make panforte date to 1879, and are available in two versions: one for the more delicate white panforte, and one for the traditional, stronger-flavoured black panforte.

How do you eat panforte?

I like to serve thin wedges of panforte as a festive dessert during the holidays. It is a perfect match to a strong espresso, but also an afternoon snack, and an after-dinner treat. It keeps well for weeks, so be sure to make enough to cover all the festive days ahead.