Giuliani I cannot thank you enough for these letters. Hearing your speak touches my soul. Just yesterday, fat Tuesday, I got to make your cenci recipe with my grandson and granddaughter. My wife and daughter watched and took pictures. I got a chance to tell a little story about Carnival and Lent and also how my mother and grandmother made their versions of cenci. It was a pretty perfect event. The cenci were great and we ate the whole batch.
Now this morning I listened to your letter about tradition. Gracie mille.
On a recent Sunday morning, I found myself making French Toast--which instantly connects me to Sunday mornings of my childhood in New York City. I'm sure my mom used supermarket boring sliced white bread in the 1960s. But this time, because I live in Italy now, I used a still-uneaten Panettone somebody gave us during the holidays. Panettone makes the BEST FRENCH TOAST - and no need for sweet toppings, it's perfect as is. An example of a tradition updated to current time and place. (--:
and I have to wholeheartedly agree! I made a panettone fresh toast, and ADORED it! It happened the same when I toasted a slice of pan co santi (which you usually don’t toast), and topped with butter. THE BEST morning toast! It is such a rewarding thing to update tradition to our time and place!
What a beautiful and personal reflection on traditional cooking. For me, the dish that most connects me to my grandmother and my childhood is her Malaysian beef curry. It seems odd, given that my grandmother lived on a farm in Ohio, but she lived in Malaysia for 2 years serving in the Peace Corps, and her curry is what she would make every time I came to visit. I could smell the incredible aroma before even reaching her screened door! Now it's what I make when my kids come home, or when I need something comforting.
Well said, Giulia - tradition is much more than just making it the old way (even if it's better tasting and healthier). For me, it is much as you defined. We do cook very seasonally as much as we possibly can. We enjoy a vegetable garden that we can pull from year-round, plus a neighborhood with a variety of fruit trees (apples, plums, citrus, and more). The natural land offers berries, herbs, alliums, mushrooms, and more.
Yet, with friends and family, we do have traditional menus, like for Thanksgiving, Christmas, and on a person's birthday, it's "What would you like on your birthday?" Let make something special or desired for the birthday meal.
The recipes and cooking style follow the seasons. Roasts vs grilling, Braised veggies vs fresh salads. etc. My wife and I both have cherished recipes from our parents and grandparents, plus a few we'll avoid (they all seemed to like fried liver, for example).
The best part is when the recipes get shared and remade by the younger generation. That is what tradition is built on and keeps the fire going. cheers, Fred
thank you for your message, Fred. I loved reading about the abundance of your vegetable garden and the land around you. Just like you, I love to ask "What would you like on your birthday?" to my family members, it's a little gesture that speaks volumes to me.
Ramps! They are pushing out of the ground as I type. I prepare them in many ways. Ramps are the first edible greens that appear in Appalachia each Spring and there is nothing else quite like them.
A memory of my youth with my father walking through the apricot orchards in California picking mustard greens still wet with the morning dew and filling brown paper bags to the top. Then driving home in our old Ford station wagon to wash and cook them in olive oil and garlic for lunch. I miss those times. To this day I still forage on my walks to honor my father and those memories we shared so long ago.
I perfectly know how you feel about foraging to honor your father and his memory. I do exactly the same to honor my grandma, and it's like she's with me every time
Giulia, I always enjoy your newsletters. This one was no exception as by name I am a tradionalist. What does tradition mean to me? It means keeping family close and remembering those that have moved on. I cook they way my grandmother and mother taught me, typically no recipes and cooking by taste and feeling. Hoping that when I am gone my children and grandchilden hold in their memories the tradition I hope to have passed on. To that end I put together two family cookbooks that log recipes passed down through the generations. Keep the letters coming.
I think so much of my cooking and eating is from other cultures’ grandmother’s food. My own grandmother taught herself to cook extremely well after the war, but she cooked French food from Elizabeth David. I cook from French and Tuscan and Persian food and while I do cook traditional British things as well it is as much from books as any other cuisine.
Tradition is very important. It's the foundation on which we live and thrive. It gives us the courage to experiment, knowing we can fall back on the 'tried and true'. I'm a great believer in cooking with seasonal produce, but am grateful for frozen foods that allow me to have what I crave when it's out of season. Fava beans is one of those vegetables.
My mother was a terrific cook, in the tradition of cucina povera. She could make a ministre that filled your belly and your soul. My sister and I make her version of Cenci at Christmas and Pizza Rustica (Gaena) at Easter, along with Easter Sweetbread. It's become a family tradition that our niece and nephews look forward to. We, too, are passing these 'traditions' along. Grazia
I love traditional German cooking at Christmas time such as Rotkohl, Weißwurst and Stollen. These dishes remind me of my childhood, family and German Christmas traditions. Even though my mother was not a great cook, she did bake German Christmas cookies every year
Always a treat to listen to you. I’m an American of Russian/Polish descent, but have lived half time in italy for ten years now. My Italian friends love the end of October, as i produce about 3 dozen pane co’ santi every year. We no longer have a bakery in town, so it’s not difficult to be the best they get, but it is really, really good. (Hint: I soak my raisins in vin santo overnight.). It also gives me great pleasure to teach friends in Seattle how to make pici - and also bolognese - then to share a table with them. Every year my friends in italy reach me new recipes from their family traditions which is a blessing. Also, that’s why I so enjoy your postings. Thank you, my friend in spirit, who I hope to meet some day.
Good on you! Some of the food that is passing as Italian in, especially expensive restaurants is abominable. It's weird and "updated" for the hell of it.
Giuliani I cannot thank you enough for these letters. Hearing your speak touches my soul. Just yesterday, fat Tuesday, I got to make your cenci recipe with my grandson and granddaughter. My wife and daughter watched and took pictures. I got a chance to tell a little story about Carnival and Lent and also how my mother and grandmother made their versions of cenci. It was a pretty perfect event. The cenci were great and we ate the whole batch.
Now this morning I listened to your letter about tradition. Gracie mille.
Thank YOU, Robert, for making the cenci and sharing that recipe with your family. You created indelible memories for your grandson and granddaughter!
On a recent Sunday morning, I found myself making French Toast--which instantly connects me to Sunday mornings of my childhood in New York City. I'm sure my mom used supermarket boring sliced white bread in the 1960s. But this time, because I live in Italy now, I used a still-uneaten Panettone somebody gave us during the holidays. Panettone makes the BEST FRENCH TOAST - and no need for sweet toppings, it's perfect as is. An example of a tradition updated to current time and place. (--:
and I have to wholeheartedly agree! I made a panettone fresh toast, and ADORED it! It happened the same when I toasted a slice of pan co santi (which you usually don’t toast), and topped with butter. THE BEST morning toast! It is such a rewarding thing to update tradition to our time and place!
What a beautiful and personal reflection on traditional cooking. For me, the dish that most connects me to my grandmother and my childhood is her Malaysian beef curry. It seems odd, given that my grandmother lived on a farm in Ohio, but she lived in Malaysia for 2 years serving in the Peace Corps, and her curry is what she would make every time I came to visit. I could smell the incredible aroma before even reaching her screened door! Now it's what I make when my kids come home, or when I need something comforting.
this is a dish with a marvelous story behind it!
What a beautiful reflection on defining your particular "tradition." (--:
Thank you, Barney! You hit the point perfectly. I don’t want to be universal, it is just my idea of tradition.
Well said, Giulia - tradition is much more than just making it the old way (even if it's better tasting and healthier). For me, it is much as you defined. We do cook very seasonally as much as we possibly can. We enjoy a vegetable garden that we can pull from year-round, plus a neighborhood with a variety of fruit trees (apples, plums, citrus, and more). The natural land offers berries, herbs, alliums, mushrooms, and more.
Yet, with friends and family, we do have traditional menus, like for Thanksgiving, Christmas, and on a person's birthday, it's "What would you like on your birthday?" Let make something special or desired for the birthday meal.
The recipes and cooking style follow the seasons. Roasts vs grilling, Braised veggies vs fresh salads. etc. My wife and I both have cherished recipes from our parents and grandparents, plus a few we'll avoid (they all seemed to like fried liver, for example).
The best part is when the recipes get shared and remade by the younger generation. That is what tradition is built on and keeps the fire going. cheers, Fred
thank you for your message, Fred. I loved reading about the abundance of your vegetable garden and the land around you. Just like you, I love to ask "What would you like on your birthday?" to my family members, it's a little gesture that speaks volumes to me.
Ramps! They are pushing out of the ground as I type. I prepare them in many ways. Ramps are the first edible greens that appear in Appalachia each Spring and there is nothing else quite like them.
ah! so jealous! Apparently I cannot find ramps here, and this is a taste I associate with spring!
A memory of my youth with my father walking through the apricot orchards in California picking mustard greens still wet with the morning dew and filling brown paper bags to the top. Then driving home in our old Ford station wagon to wash and cook them in olive oil and garlic for lunch. I miss those times. To this day I still forage on my walks to honor my father and those memories we shared so long ago.
I perfectly know how you feel about foraging to honor your father and his memory. I do exactly the same to honor my grandma, and it's like she's with me every time
Giulia, I always enjoy your newsletters. This one was no exception as by name I am a tradionalist. What does tradition mean to me? It means keeping family close and remembering those that have moved on. I cook they way my grandmother and mother taught me, typically no recipes and cooking by taste and feeling. Hoping that when I am gone my children and grandchilden hold in their memories the tradition I hope to have passed on. To that end I put together two family cookbooks that log recipes passed down through the generations. Keep the letters coming.
The cookbooks are a brilliant idea!
I think so much of my cooking and eating is from other cultures’ grandmother’s food. My own grandmother taught herself to cook extremely well after the war, but she cooked French food from Elizabeth David. I cook from French and Tuscan and Persian food and while I do cook traditional British things as well it is as much from books as any other cuisine.
it is your own tradition that you shape with your curiosity! So beautiful! (I love Elizabeth David!)
Tradition is very important. It's the foundation on which we live and thrive. It gives us the courage to experiment, knowing we can fall back on the 'tried and true'. I'm a great believer in cooking with seasonal produce, but am grateful for frozen foods that allow me to have what I crave when it's out of season. Fava beans is one of those vegetables.
My mother was a terrific cook, in the tradition of cucina povera. She could make a ministre that filled your belly and your soul. My sister and I make her version of Cenci at Christmas and Pizza Rustica (Gaena) at Easter, along with Easter Sweetbread. It's become a family tradition that our niece and nephews look forward to. We, too, are passing these 'traditions' along. Grazia
this is just beautiful!
I love traditional German cooking at Christmas time such as Rotkohl, Weißwurst and Stollen. These dishes remind me of my childhood, family and German Christmas traditions. Even though my mother was not a great cook, she did bake German Christmas cookies every year
German cooking at Christmas feels so right!
Always a treat to listen to you. I’m an American of Russian/Polish descent, but have lived half time in italy for ten years now. My Italian friends love the end of October, as i produce about 3 dozen pane co’ santi every year. We no longer have a bakery in town, so it’s not difficult to be the best they get, but it is really, really good. (Hint: I soak my raisins in vin santo overnight.). It also gives me great pleasure to teach friends in Seattle how to make pici - and also bolognese - then to share a table with them. Every year my friends in italy reach me new recipes from their family traditions which is a blessing. Also, that’s why I so enjoy your postings. Thank you, my friend in spirit, who I hope to meet some day.
Giulia…I stand behind tradition and I stand behind you! BRAVA!
Non potrei essere più d’accordo!! Bravissima😘
Lorenza noi abbiamo un sacco di cose in comune, e ne vado davvero fiera! Un caro abbraccio e speriamo a presto!
Flavia! I just enjoy your wonderful reasoning and words. 💝
Good on you! Some of the food that is passing as Italian in, especially expensive restaurants is abominable. It's weird and "updated" for the hell of it.
I know what you mean! Sometimes I just would love to find something made by the book, simple and honest food!